In the “Single Outline Diamond with beads” video, near the end, I demonstrate . . .
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE WEAVING GETS TIGHT AT THE TOP
The first thing to do is use your thumb to press down on the threads when there’s not enough room for the Tug technique (see My First Video). Next you can use your fork; if your fork doesn’t have a straight edge at the end of the handle, you can use the side of the tines.
When you’ve hit the frame and nothing else will do, you can use a crochet hook. I use an Amour by Clover, size B (2.25 mm) because it fits through the pins (sometimes I have to use the hook to rewarp parts of the loom that inadvertently “gang aft agley”) and it’s not useful for most of my crocheting.
Crochet hooks–the omni-tool of the-needlework-and-all-other-worlds
With the needle in place, use the crochet hook to gently pull the warp thread loops away from the pins. This will help pack the weaving a little tighter below, and will give you a little more room to weave that last row.
These techniques are demonstrated in this video. Go to 5:40 on the clock.
No denying it, diamonds are a popular design element when it comes to weaving. They’re symmetrical, versatile, and dynamic.
An assortment of pin loom jewels
In addition to all-over patterns, sometimes patterns feature what I call “pictures.” So there are overall patterns and picture patterns, or pictures–in my personal terminology. Last week we learned that you can do just about anything and the weaving will work out. This week we’re going to tackle a simple picture: the “Single Outline Diamond” from the Weave-it Weaves booklet. Picture patterns are less fudge-able, so it’s important to focus on the pattern and count stitiches. The instructions for the pattern are typed out below–so you don’t have to copy the photo–I suggest printing them so you can make notes as you go.
Can you imagine a time when people used to make a living selling stuff for 15 cents?
(The Weave-it Weaves booklet can be found in PDF format at this site: http://www.eloomanation.com/projects.php Scroll down the page till you see the booklet cover pictured above, then click on the PDF link.)
“Single Outline Diamond”
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If you’re embarking on your pin loom weaving career, or are ready for some clarifications, here are some 102-level basics.
***Remember, you can click on a photo to enlarge it; click the back arrow (upper left corner of this page) to return to these instructions.
Right, Left; Odd, Even; Corners, and Edges
When I talk about weaving and patterns, I frequently have to refer to the edges of the loom. Top and bottom, left and right are arbitrary if you turn the loom while weaving, so I try to refer to the sides by their corners, e.g. the “left” side of the loom is the 1-3 side. This information is useful, though for the life of me I can’t think why at the moment!
Corner and side designations shown on a Weave-It
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In response to the oft repeated plea, “How does pin loom weaving work?” or “What am I doing wrong?” I take pen to paper (metaphorically) and attempt to make it all make sense. Quite likely someone has answered these questions already on the World Wide Web, but I want a post of my own. 🙂 No, I mean this post will be easy for me find and refer other folks to.
The basic tools: yarn, a pin loom (Schacht’s Zoom pictured), scissors, needle threader, needle, fork.
- What kind of yarn is best?
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