Three variations of 4-inch woven hearts.

Three variations of 4-inch woven hearts.

The pattern for the bas relief (raised) pink heart in the photo above comes from the book Pin Loom Weaving by Margaret Stump so I haven’t included it herein.
http://smile.amazon.com/Pin-Loom-Weaving-Projects-Looms/dp/0811712486/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436039003&sr=8-1&keywords=margaret+stump&pebp=1436039007602&perid=0R60NY9YBQC6N9C2MT4E

The jumping off place for all those interested in pin loom weaving.

The jumping off place for all those interested in pin loom weaving.

But I invented the pattern for the sunken heart depicted in the other squares, so I’m sharing it here.

The method I use is: Warp the first three layers in one color, then switch to a second color for the last layer. I wrap an extra five wraps around the loom–9 3/4 wraps total–and either tie on at the end of the long strand and weave pulling the extra long length through, or tie on after the 5 wraps. When finished I either crochet the border from corner four or two. Weaving the entire length puts the crochet tail at corner four. It doesn’t matter which way you choose; it just depends on where you want your final knot or whether or not you mind pulling an extra long weaving length through your work.

Please keep in mind these instructions are the intellectual property of Sue Burton. Do not copy or sell them. You may share the link to this blog.

Row 1: Plain weave (P)
Row 2: U-3, O-1 across; end with U-3
Row 3: P-2; U-3, O-1 (2x); U-3; P-5; U-3, O-1 (2x); U-3; P-2
Row 4: U-3, O-1 (2x); U-3; P-9; U-3, O-1 (2x); U-3
Row 5: P2; U-3, O-1, U-3; P-13; U-3, O-1, U-3; P-2
Row 6: U-3, O-1, U-3; P-17; U-3, O-1, U-3
Row 7: P-2; U-3; P-21; U-3; P-2
Row 8: U-3; P-25; U-3
Row 9: P
Row 10: Repeat row 8 [Or see Variation instructions below]
Row 11: P
Row 12: Repeat row 8
Row 13: P-2; U-3; P-9; U-3; P-9; U-3; P-2
Row 14: U-3, O-1, U-3; P-5; U-3, O-1, U-3; P-5; U-3, O-1, U-3
Row 15: P-2; U-3, O-1 across; end with U-3; P-2
Row 16: P

Variation for Row 10: P
[This will produce the effect in the pink/blue heart shown in the photo.]

As you can see in the photos below, the effect of the raised heart on its reverse side is different while the sunken heart itself looks the same on both sides.

Reverse of Margaret Stump's heart pattern.

Reverse of Margaret Stump’s heart pattern.

Reverse of Sunken Heart pattern.

Reverse of Sunken Heart pattern.

 

The heart is less obvious in this two-color version. Layers 1 and three in green; layers 2 and 4 in pink.

Sunken heart.

Sunken heart.

The hands have not been idle.

"Hourglass," Weave-it Weaves, p 11.

“Hourglass,” Weave-it Weaves, p 11.

I made this pretty square and followed the instructions to the T. (To the T? Did I make that up? I don’t think so . . .) But I’m not wholly satisfied with that extra long stitch in the middle. (However, if you like the idea of that long stitch being the sand that runs through the hourglass, you might not want to change it.) I know exactly why it’s there though.

And I figured out how to fix it.

"Hourglass (modified)."

“Hourglass (modified).”

You have to get tricky during the warping process.

First, go to eloomanation.com and download, or open, the Weave-it Weaves PDF.

http://www.eloomanation.com/pdf/1938WeaveItWeaves.pdf

Print it and write this on page 11: Hourglass modified—Warp layers 1-3 as usual. If cutting after layer 3, unwind back to strand 16 (total number of vertical strands from layers 1 and 3) and thread under horizontal strand #8. Tie on next color and continue. If cutting after winding (4 3/4 times), go back then and thread under strand #8.

Then follow the directions for weaving as printed in the manual.

***Click on photo to see larger version. Click on back arrow to return to these instructions.

Photo shows how layer 3 has been modified.

Photo shows how layer 3 has been modified.

Please note that because layer 1 was not altered, the two squares look the same on the back.

The reverse sides are identical.

The reverse sides are identical.

Coming soon: a Sue Burton original, the Sunken Heart pattern stitch . . .

Sunken Heart

Sunken Heart

Sunken Heart

Sunken Heart with finished edge.

The 6-inch loom.

The 6-inch loom.

I recently built a 6″ loom and wove a nice square on it.

Finished square still on the loom.

Finished square still on the loom.

Today I’m trying an 8″ actual PIN loom.  I made the frame from 1/4″ foam core (I’d recommend slightly thicker, but I used what I had) and stuck sewing pins into it (Weave-it fashion). I marked the pin-placement plan on 1/8″ graph paper first and taped that on top of the foam core; stuck slender glass-head pins through the paper and into the foam core to make guide holes.

A man, a plan, a canal--Panama. OK, doesn't make any sense, but it was in my head--had to let it out. Here's the original design. I didn't photo the whole process, but I hope I described it well enough.

A man, a plan, a canal: Panama. OK, doesn’t make any sense, but it was in my head–had to let it out. Here’s the original design. I didn’t photo the whole process, but I hope I described it well enough.

(Remember: you can click on a photo to see a larger version; click the back arrow to return to this post.)

8-inch PIN loom

8-inch PIN loom. I used sewing pins with tiny or flat knobs on the ends. They’re various heights, but that doesn’t seem to matter.

A sideways look at it, in case anyone finds that helpful.

A sideways look at it, in case anyone finds that helpful.

It feels like a disaster in the making, but I’m hoping it will turn out OK.

Decision #1: tie the yarn onto the loom instead of the pins. They seem a bit fragile.

Layers 1 and 2 warped with Caron Super Soft “Grape.”

Layers 1 and 2. Note: yarn is tied onto the loom, not the pins, at  bottom left corner.

Layers 1 and 2. Note: yarn is tied onto the loom, not the pins, at bottom left corner.

Layers 3 and 4 warped with Bernat Satin “Lapis.” (It’s called Lapis, but it’s really a very pale blue.)

Decision #2: unsure how many times to wrap the yarn around the loom to determine weaving length. Judging by my experience with the 6″ loom, it looks like a good rule of thumb is # of inches + 1 wrap. This is an 8″ loom, so 8 wraps + 1 = 9. But just to be on the safe side, I did 9 1/2 wraps. If I run out it’s no biggie, I can add more later (lesson learned on the 6″ loom).

9 1/2 wraps around the loom; cut yarn; thread  10"needle.

9 1/2 wraps around the loom; cut yarn; thread 10″ needle. Note: second color and cut first color are tied together onto the loom at upper left corner.

Row 1: Plain weave across.

All righty, maybe one drawback is the super, super long yarn tail. Makes me wish I had a super, super thin shuttle. Nevertheless, as weaving progresses I know the tail will get shorter. It’s not too big a pain to pull all that length through.

Decision #3: what pattern stitch do I want? This loom has 67 stitches across which means I can do a 3-strand stitch 22 times and have one left over, or a 4-strand stitch 16 times with 3 leftover. I decide on the four-strand stitch.

Row 2 (and all rows thereafter, except the last row): P-3; O-3, U-1 (16x)

First four rows. Weaving is well underway, no casualties yet.

First four rows. Weaving is well underway, no casualties yet.

So far, so good. I have to modify my habits of leaning on the pins while I weave, and so forth, but I’m impressed. The loom is holding up nicely. However, I think this pattern is kind of small for a square this big. Of course a small pattern is fine in a square this size, but I’m thinking 8″ x 8″ could also carry off something much bolder than you’d put on a 4″ x 4″ loom. Not sure at this point how to plan this, but I’m thinking about it . . .

Always keep notes as you go along! You won't regret it (unless you're like me and forget, uh, to keep making them).

Always keep notes as you go along! You won’t regret it (unless you’re like me and forget, uh, to keep making them).

As weaving progressed, well, it didn’t. I discovered I’d made a mistake. Have to admit, that was a pain to take out because of the super long yarn tail. However, it was just the one mistake and once I sorted it out, everything was smoothish sailing.

Not super obvious, but the over-and-under-ing got a bit messed up in this corner. Had to take out a couple of rows to straighten it out.

Not super obvious, but the over-and-under-ing got a bit messed up in this corner. Had to take out a couple of rows to straighten it out.

Working along, about 2/3 of the way up, I discovered it was the side pins that began to jostle out of place. I was expecting the top and bottom pins to give me trouble, but they didn’t (till the very end). Perhaps I was overcareful with the vertical-row pins and that caused the horizontal-row pins to shift, but it wasn’t much and didn’t create any significant difficulties. I just had to be aware of the situation and take care with them.

A closer view of the condition known as Side-Pin-Shift. Didn't cause any problems. It usually occurred at the sight of needle entrance or exit.

A closer view of the condition known as Side-Pin-Shift. Didn’t cause any problems. It usually occurred at the site of needle entrance or exit.

Side-Pin-Shift also occurred lower down on the loom, but presented no problem to finishing the weaving. The pins could have been bumped out of place; it looks like they're not shifting because of being under too much tension.

Side-Pin-Shift also occurred lower down on the loom, but presented no problem to finishing the weaving. The pins could have been bumped out of place; it looks like they’re not shifting because of being under too much tension.

Taking a look at the bigger picture, I can see–as I hinted earlier–that this size square could easily accommodate both a background pattern and a medallion “picture” in its center. I was thinking a smaller square within the larger square or a diamond shape. Because this square is so large it wouldn’t be such a bother to change colors for the medallion feature.

I think a solid-color purple diamond would look nice with the simple patterned background.

I think a solid-color purple diamond would look nice with the simple patterned background.

It took a bajillion times longer to finish weaving this square than it does to make a 4″ x 4″–obviously. Reasons include: the long tail, learning to do something new, and being extra-careful not to wreck the equipment.

All went much better than anticipated, till I got to the last row. If you’re acquainted with pin loom weaving, you know that last row–the scrunched-in one–is the most difficult to fit in. As I wove this square I took special care to make sure I had enough loose-ish yarn for the top row, but working against the shifty pins was tough. I got most of the way across, then switched to a smaller needle to weave through the last few loops. Worked like a charm!

As you can see, there's plenty of extra yarn--that extra half wrap I included. I'm not worried because I'd probably use it to sew squares together later on. However, one could safely cut down to 9 1/4 wraps, I think.

As you can see, there’s plenty of leftover yarn–that extra half wrap I included. I’m not worried about waste because I’ll probably use it to sew squares together later on. However, one could safely cut down to 9 1/4 wraps, I think.

I find I’m interested enough in exploring possibilities with this loom to construct a more stable one. Someday. In the meantime I might see if I can re-use this one.

Decision #4: to dismantle or not? How am I going to get the square safely off the loom?

I don’t want to dislodge the pins if I hope to use this loom again. Pulling them out and replacing them will make them looser and less capable of holding up for a second weaving.

First, untie the ends that are secured to the top and bottom left corners of the loom. Take a deep breath. Find the loosest corner of the weaving. Looks like the top right corner on mine. Push all sides of the square up near the top of the pins. Begin easing the square off at that loosest corner. (This is why I didn’t want to use flat-head pins, but I ran out of the other kind.) Hold your thumb under the work, lightly against the pins from the inside. This creates a slight counter-pressure as you lift the loops over the pin heads. Work your way gently around the loom, always going to the loosest spots to lift off.

Getting there . . .

Getting there . . .

Finished square framed by totally intact loom.

Finished square framed by totally intact loom.

Finished front.

Finished, front view. Looks like even tension throughout. Very pleased with this effort, if I do say so myself.

Finished, reverse (with ruler showing size).

Finished, reverse view (with ruler showing size).

Looks like we made it! Finished size is 7.5″ x 7.5″. I’m definitely going to try this loom again. It’s big enough to try freestyle weaving.