This is a semi-tutorial on using thick-and-thin art yarn on the pin loom. (Usually I’d use a Wunderwag loom for these photos, but couldn’t readily lay hands on an available-for-use one.)
This is how I warp the pin loom when I use thick-and-thin art yarn
One of the benefits of taking a break from the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group is that I now have leisure time to explore. Without noticing, I’d practically left off embarking on personal pin loom weaving adventures.
Weaving the 3-layer method on a Sue-made equidistant pin loom
Let 2017 henceforth be known as . . .
The Seemingly Endless Year of Triangle Pin Loom Reasearch
(and let that be an end to it).
I can’t say I’ve enjoyed the frustration and masses of computer and paper work associated with my research. I feel I’ve been reasonably thorough, have answered all the questions I’ve come up with (feel free to ask yours because the year isn’t technically over yet), and am finally (at least for the present) satisfied with the results.
If I lose my ability to see clearly, this pile of papers might be to blame.
Because I don’t knit on circular needles, I sort of developed my own pattern.
I generally use acrylic baby yarn (weight category 3) which makes a nice, stretchy ribbing and leg part. I think I knit a little bit loose. If you want to use heavier yarn, just advance all the needle/hook sizes up by one size.
Use size 5 needles. Cast on 40 sts. (I use the long-tail cast on method.)
R1-16: K1, P1 ribbing
Switch to size 6 needles.
R17-80: stockinette st.
Switch to size 5 needles
R81-96: K1, P1 ribbing
Use size E hook for crochet bind-off.
Use size F hook to close seam, taking special care to close the very first stitch so it doesn’t leave a gap. I use a basic slip stitch, worked loosely. Work in ends.
Tip: I use Clover brand Wonder Clips to hold the edges in place so everything stays matched up along the sewing seam. (Tried another cheaper brand and returned them.)