“Lattice Borders,” from the Weave-it Magic Squares booklet, is a simple and versatile pattern. It’s somewhere between an overall pattern and a picture pattern, and would make a great border design on a scarf or blanket. It looks great in single or several colors, but variegated yarn is not recommended as the details of the pattern will likely be lost.
“Lattice Borders”–single color; this sample originally featured a mistake in the pattern. It has since been corrected.
When I wove the sample pictured above, I made a mistake I didn’t notice till I took the square off the loom. “Rats!” I thought, planning to start over. Instead I went on to make the already warped two-color sample of the same square. While I wove I recognized the “blessing in disguise:” I could demonstrate how to fix a mistake in a square after it’s off the loom. Watch for that mini-tutorial later in this post.
“Lattice Borders” in two colors–warped L1 & 3: mc/L2 & 4: cc.
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In the “Single Outline Diamond with beads” video, near the end, I demonstrate . . .
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE WEAVING GETS TIGHT AT THE TOP
The first thing to do is use your thumb to press down on the threads when there’s not enough room for the Tug technique (see My First Video). Next you can use your fork; if your fork doesn’t have a straight edge at the end of the handle, you can use the side of the tines.
When you’ve hit the frame and nothing else will do, you can use a crochet hook. I use an Amour by Clover, size B (2.25 mm) because it fits through the pins (sometimes I have to use the hook to rewarp parts of the loom that inadvertently “gang aft agley”) and it’s not useful for most of my crocheting.
Crochet hooks–the omni-tool of the-needlework-and-all-other-worlds
With the needle in place, use the crochet hook to gently pull the warp thread loops away from the pins. This will help pack the weaving a little tighter below, and will give you a little more room to weave that last row.
These techniques are demonstrated in this video. Go to 5:40 on the clock.