Diagonal Block Stitch pattern created by Susan Smith (I can’t find her original post, so I hope it’s all right with her if I repost it.)
Diagonal Block Stitch dishcloth
This pattern is a little tricky to learn, but once you get the hang of it you can start a new cloth anywhere, anytime you have your materials with you. All you have to remember is that it starts with 6 chains.
Looks so good in variegated yarn that I’ve never made one plain colored, but I’m using plain for some of the demo photos to make it easier to see.
Materials:
size G (4 mm) or H (5 mm) crochet hook
worsted weight cotton yarn (one small ball makes 2.5 cloths)
Abbreviations and notes:
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
This dishcloth’s rows are counted on point instead of horizontal rows.
Instructions:
Row 1: ch 6; dc in 4th, 5th, and 6th ch from hook (AKA chs 3, 2, and 1). Beginning block made.
Note: you now have a block of three dcs and one 3-ch post which, in other patterns, usually counts as a dc. In this pattern, you’ll be using it as a space to stitch into. This is the basic pattern. It will be repeated throughout the entire cloth.
First block made. From L to R: 3 dcs, one 3-ch post.
Row 2: ch 6; dc in 4th, 5th, and 6th ch from hook (block made).
Knitting needle is pointing to first block. Crochet hook is in 1st block of row 2. Knitting needle is also pointing at 3-ch post–where the sl st is headed.
Twist first block [row 1] up. [With work facing you, fold the lower block away from you and up toward the hook–creating a twist between the blocks. You’ll find that folding, or “twisting,” one direction is easier than the other. Note that the wrong side of row 1 block is now facing you.]
Row1’s block in twisted up, or folded up, position. Knitting needle is pointing at 3-ch post (hereinafter referred to as ch-post) of row 1 block.
sl st around ch-post of beginning ch of row 1 block, ch 3. dc 3 around the same ch-post where sl st was made. Row 2 now has two blocks.
Note: Do not insert crochet hook through the threads of the ch-post. Insert hook under the ch–between the ch-post and the dc next to it.
Second block of row 2 made.
Row 3: ch 6; dc in 4th, 5th, and 6th ch from hook (block made).
First block of row 3. Knitting needle is pointing to target ch-post.
Twist worked section up, sl st around ch-post, ch 3, dc 3 around same post.
First block of row 3 completed. Notice how the block is piled on the block of row 2 below. Knitting needle is pointing to ch-post where sl st is complete. Second block of row 3 will be between the blocks of row 2. Third will be piled on the last square.
sl st around ch-post of 2nd block, ch 3, dc 3 around ch-post. Repeat for third block of row 3.
Row 3 complete. First block of row 4 begun. Hook is pointing at 5th ch from hook where 2nd dc will be worked.
Rows 4-10: Work the same as row 3. Then begin decreasing rows (see instructions below).
Note: you can work more or less than 10 rows, depending on the size/shape you want. The example shows 10 rows.
10 rows complete. Ready to begin decreasing. Notice how the yarn has changed! (This dishcloth was already under construction.) See how easy it is to count the blocks because each row’s stitches alternate between horizontal and vertical.
Decreasing rows
Work each decrease row as follows: sl st in each of the three dcs and into the ch-post of last block worked (total of 4 sl sts).
Note: DO NOT ch 1 before the turn.
Beginning of first decrease. Tapestry needles are pointing to the four sl sts.
3 chs worked off ch-post. Ready to add 3 dcs and proceed as usual.
ch 3, dc 3 in ch-post. *sl st around ch-post of next block, ch 3, dc 3 in around ch-post* Repeat *to* instructions across row, end row with sl st around ch-post of last block.
Decreasing in progress.
Repeat decreasing rows until last block is finished. sc around outside edge with 3 sc in each corner. Weave in ends.
Outside border can use the same or contrasting yarn.