for L. A.
One reason I don’t want to write a non-fiction book is because it’s like asking for a gob of mistakes to be printed and preserved practically for eternity. As I peruse Florencia Campos Correa’s book, 100 Pin Loom Squares (a book about which I have VERY mixed feelings) I can’t help thinking (again), “This could have been, should have been, a wonderful book. What makes me think I could do a better job?”
In the meantime, while I wrestle with my personal publishing commit-a-phobia, I shall devote some of my efforts to correcting extant mistakes. Today’s target: the two-layer warping (2LW) section of Florencia’s book (beginning p 38).
- I start by suggesting that instead of wrapping the pins 8 times (as she suggests on p 39), wrap the pins at least 8 1/2 times. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
- Next, I suggest you read my blog post on Two-Layer Warping because Florencia NEVER tells you what to do with the 31st strand. As a brand new weaver (over a year ago) that omission drove me bonkers.
- My first mistake correction is merely a typo. I know enough about pin loom weaving by now to recognize a mistake in repetition once a pattern gets underway. The trouble, though, is proving it. Wouldn’t you know, in this pattern, the mistake is in the first iteration of a row that only shows up twice in the whole square. If you have the book, go to p 43, “Multiple Diamonds Stitch.” At the end of Row 8, draw a line through “U1, O1” and write “U2.” (If you wish to compare, look at Row 20, which is Row 8’s repeat.)
- I suggest (this is not a correction to the book) that in 2LW, you employ the sideways tug technique in addition to the upward tug technique. The side tug is just an extra-firm tug as you finish weaving a row. It actually affects the penultimate row more than the row just woven. 2LW squares on the pin loom have a tendency to be loose, so tighten them up by warping more tightly than you would for three-layer warping and pull each completed woven row quite snug.
- I also suggest that you not pack the rows very tightly at the bottom of the weaving. There’s lots of leftover room at the top, so you want your square to fill up that space better.
Now, the raison d’etre for this post . . .
P 41 “Diamond Stitch”
- R3 end: cross out “O3;” write in “O-2, U-1” (you can leave out the hyphens if you prefer it that way)
- R4 beginning: cross out “U1, O1;” write in “O-2“
- R22 beginning: cross out “O2;” write in “U-1, O-1“
- R30 end: cross out “O1, U1;” write in “O-2“
This will give you a square that looks like this:
The pattern still needs re-writing if you want the square centered top to bottom. The center row should be R16, instead it’s R18. For now, though, it will do.
Yarn used in samples:
Purple Square — L1&2: Caron Simply Soft “Plum Perfect;” Weft: Red Heart Soft “Plummy”
Red Square — L1&2: unidentified mill end comparable to Caron Simply Soft yarn weight; Weft: Caron Simply Soft “Pink Camo”
(See also Adventures in Pin Loom Weaving Topical Guide—scroll down to Two-Layer Warping section—for links to videos and posts I’ve made about this subject.)