One thing I’ve learned about silk yarn is that it can shrink. In the photo below, I started with two squares—same size, same weaving pattern—washed one in hot, soapy water, then left it to dry.

For more info on this photo, see this post

I found a crochet pattern online I thought was pretty. Rather than use the now “unavailable” Aunt Lydia’s Iced Bamboo, as the pattern recommended, I tried some yarn in my stash.

Here are the stats:

For the sample, I followed the pattern directions as written, which produces a very skinny scarf. Naturally you can make it longer…

This was my first time working a project in two halves (on either side of the foundation chain). I was worried the center join might look clunky, but it’s quite pretty.

There was no chart, so I drew my own. Then I figured out the stitch multiple and drew a larger diagram (see last photo in this post). If you want to use my diagram, I apologize in advance. I wrote it in pencil (so I could erase mistakes). I added notations of my own, some of which were in red pencil. Our scanner has become obsolete, so I had to use the copy machine to make the diagram darker. It worked well for me while I crocheted the sample, but then I’m familiar with my own writing. (If you print the photo of the diagram, please also print my notes in the caption.)

Size before blocking: 4 1/2″ x 7 1/2″

I made a xerographic copy of the swatch…

…the copy and swatch are the same size. (Photo shows swatch on top of the copy of itself.)

Instead of hot, soapy water, I put the piece in cool water. (I knew this yarn would shrink in hot water and didn’t want it to.) I let it soak for 30 minutes.
Afterward, I laid it flat on the blocking mat and pinned it in place. I didn’t stretch it out, just tried to keep it the same size that it was naturally

After blocking—the piece appears to not have shrunk much, if at all. Yarn is much softer now.

“Lacy Crystals Scarf” diagram—as written and extended version (Multiple is 10 + 2—I  recommend even numbers of 10s [20, 40, 60…] in order to get the shell centered in the final row—which is a Row 5.)
Please Note: I’ve drawn scoop marks to indicate that sts are worked under the chain, rather than in the individual chains. (In fact, other than in the foundation ch, I always worked under the chains, rather than through them.)
I drew vertical lines to indicate where sts were placed, e.g., Line-ctr-line means three SC were worked in the center of seven SCs of the row below.
In the extended version I’ve written the 7 DCs shell as a “DC-mark 7x DC-mark” because I didn’t want to draw all those DC marks every time; same goes for the SC 7x SC that goes along the top of the shell. (I’ve drawn in R2 along the top—original is in red pencil—and it shows a 7 instead of 7x.)
The pattern instructions say to join with SC to last chain. This is misleading. It’s actually the first chain of your original foundation chain—you start here so the second half will also have R1 on the right side of your scarf. And I did a sl st, ch 1 (instead of SC), then SC in the 2nd ch and so on. Other .than that, I have no other notes. It’s a pretty simple pattern.

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